Chefs across the world agree that wild smoked salmon is a particularly delicious dish, although there is some disagreement about which variety of the fish is best. This disagreement seems based on local tradition - Scottish chefs are ardent fans of Scottish smoked salmon, Norwegian chefs buy Norwegian, while many English chefs are willing to experiment with value smoked salmon from around the world. We caught up with three chefs to find out why.

Hamish, a sous chef from Aberdeen, is clear on the subject: "Only wild Scottish salmon will do it. When I'm cooking for my chef mates, they'd be appalled if I gave them anything but Scottish. It's in the flavour - when the salmon has had a happy life, swimming wild down highland brooks, it has this rich and succulent taste. When you get that supermarket stuff, it's just bland."

Dennis, a head chef from Trondheim, disagrees: "While smoked Scottish salmon does taste delicious, it's nothing like a good portion of Norwegian salmon. The water is so clean in our fjords that we end up with the purest meat, which is delicious for all sorts of dishes. When you use good smoked salmon for your recipes, you're bound to end up with a nice dish."

Malcolm, a chef from Dagenham, is less fussy when it comes to his fish: "I like all kinds of salmon, it just has to be quality smoked salmon. There's no great tradition of salmon fishing here in Southern England, so we've always had to look further afield for our supplies. For the last couple of years, I've been buying smoked salmon online - when you go for online salmon you can experiment with all different types and quantities. It can be delivered the next day, which makes it great for chefs like me. In the last month, I've ordered things I'd never normally try, like double smoke-roasted flaky salmon. It was delicious!"

So, what conclusions can be drawn from the chefs' experiences? Well, firstly, chefs find it very difficult to agree on things. Secondly, it doesn't really matter where your fish comes from as long as you go for good quality, lovingly produced fish.